The Lifeguard sign at the Rivermouth surf break.
I surf here every morning;I'm in the water by 7:30 a.m. at the latest. The info board is up every morning by the time I leave the water at 9:00. After a few weeks out of the water, I feel like all arms and legs, and it's learning all over again.
This morning, feeling a bit unsure, I paddled out past the break to the line up with everyone else. The wind whipped the water back off the top of the breaking waves into our faces. The rip kept tugging us down the beach, so we were constantly correcting our positions. I caught 2 waves without bailing! I was pleased. Nothing fancy, thank you, just a bottom turn and a ride in to the beach. I look forward to my next session!
Sunday, December 23, 2007
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